Last week, Hurricane Earl sent a long-lasting sea impulse from the US east coast to western Europe. It is a rare occurrence for a swell to move continuously across the Atlantic. But now the first major hurricane of the season is about to do the same, only this time it’s a bigger swell with some devilish winds. Fair warning, there’s still a long way to go so keep checking back for updates.
Hurricane Fiona, a Category 4 hurricane, has already made landfall in Puerto Rico, causing major power outages and killing at least four people. As always, we feel a little torn when reporting the positive results related to surfing, which in this case inevitably coincide with the strongest Atlantic storm of the season. Today we published an article detailing how we can all get involved in helping the affected nation – including links where you can donate to relief efforts. You can check that here.
See that orange stripe over there? That is the long period that has developed to near the US.
Hurricane Fiona has already sent swell to the US east coast and is moving north. Over the next few days or so, Fiona will be generating this long swell that will spread across the North Atlantic and hit Europe’s western flank on Tuesday next week and hit the UK and Ireland mark about 20 seconds from now but coupled with one NW, onshore wind. It will likely be smaller in France and Portugal (3ft at 18 seconds for the latter) as the winds are looking favorable at the moment.
UK forecaster Jamie Bateman said: “Western Europe will experience another round of prolonged hurricane swelling next week. While Earl delivered a rare hurricane-induced swell earlier this month, here we are with another, two in as many weeks. Hurricane Fiona, currently a Category 4 storm targeting Bermuda tomorrow, turns NNE/NE today. This lane will help create a solid, long-lasting swell that will spread across the North Atlantic Basin tomorrow.
Then the swell will spread across the North Atlantic on Monday. NOTE: This indicates the long duration of the swelling (20+ seconds), not the threshold height.
“Initially, this long-lasting swell will move continuously across the ocean. Things will change as the swell approaches Europe early next week as a large powerful low appears to be winding into northern Iceland by the weekend and sending a cold front and NW winds south through Europe by Monday and Tuesday. even reach the Mediterranean coast of North Africa.
“Most of the time this NW wind will put a stunning dampener on conditions, particularly in the surf zones further north in Europe where the swell and wind will increase at the same time – further south in Portugal and Morocco they will just about hold onto typical conditions N/NNE trade wind patterns before they too will see an onshore wind mid week.
South West UK forecast on Tuesday. The probability is still low, but this long period shows that a hurricane wave is coming.
“Selected deep water, NW sheltered breaks in Ireland and South Wales and West Cornwall will find some good conditions but this NW wind will create local WNW/NW wind swells so even the most remote locations will have a bump on the lineup. So for now let’s celebrate another hurricane wave but keep expectations low.”
Keep an eye on your local weather forecast UK + Ireland | France | Spain | Portugal | Morocco |
